Monday, April 22, 2013

The silkie chicken

Silkies are a wonderful breed of chicken. They are friendly love to sit on laps and are a pure joy. I've noticed silkies are actually quieter than most chickens. They have a pleasant little song. when upset can they become loud which is very rare. Silkies do have feathers but the feather do not have quills giving them the soft appearance and feel of fur. In old times people believed they were crossed with rabbits which of course is no true. In my opinion silkies are the best pet chicken for showing and for a pet. Their unique look make them different than a regular chicken. In fact they ARE different. The silkie has black skin and black bones. Also the true silkie or show quality silkie has Five toes! While other chickens have four. Silkies are even feathered down the legs to the feet. Giving them an even more unique look. Silkies are considered a bantam. Meaning they are smaller than a regular chicken. A great club to join if you like silkies is the American bantam silkie  club. And if you will be showing your silkie its best to buy them from a breeder. Sadly hatchery silkies look different than breeder silkies and usually can not be shown because they do not meet the standard of perfection set fourth for the breed in showing. If your showing grab a copy The Standard of Perfection/2010 version. I'm not sure if they have a newer standard but 2010 will work. It clearly defines what the bird should look like and with each color group. they are scored on points according to the standard. There are immediate disqualifications in showing silkies such as less than five toes or not having black skin because these things indicate the bird is a cross bread and not a pure silkie. So when buying your silkie I think its best to purchase your bird from a reputable dealer. You might pay a bit more but usually will get a better quality silkie. You can join the American bantam silkie club and you will receive a book of quality breeders. Usually you can get a good show quality silkie for 150.dollars. Chicks around 50. Dollars. As opposed to pet quality which is around 3. Dollars a chick and 10. A older bird. So it just depends on which you want. If your show you'll want the better quality. If only for a pet then pet quality or hatchery quality is fine. Either way silkies are make the most wonderful pets and bring great joy to your life. Here is a picture of a blue silkie
Colors recognized by the standard are white blue partridge black buff and splash. I highly recommend a silkie for a family pet! Silkies lay light brown eggs. What other pet can make you breakfast of eggs?silkies are a great joy. they are my favorite type of chicken.

Sunday, April 21, 2013

Small joys

The smallest things in life bring the greatest joy. True joy can not be bought it must be found in life. Here are some great joys in my life!

Silkies are truly amazing creatures!

Friday, March 29, 2013

Mareks vaccine why its so important!

If you own chickens its likely you have heard of Mareks disease. It is a Highly contagious air borne disease that is everywhere! It can give your bird paralysis in the neck and limbs and tumors inside the organs. Some strains are ocular and turn the iris of the eye blue followed by the tumors and paralysis and ultimately death. It is a horrific disease. It can travel in the air and is virtually everywhere! It is shed by the infected chickens dander and can infect your land for years to come. Its known as a chicken cancer its so bad. Marek's disease is a highly contagious viral neoplastic disease in chickens. It is named after József Marek, a Hungarian veterinarian. Occasionally misdiagnosed as an abtissue pathology it is caused by an alphaherpesvirus known as 'Marek's disease virus' (MDV) or Gallid herpesvirus 2 (GaHV-2). The disease is characterized by the presence of T cell lymphoma as well as infiltration of nerves and organs by lymphocytes.[1] Viruses related to MDV appear to be benign and can be used as vaccine strains to prevent Marek's disease. For example, the related Herpesvirus of Turkeys (HVT), causes no apparent disease in turkeys and continues to be used as a vaccine strain for prevention of Marek's disease (see below). Birds infected with GaHV-2 can be carriers and shedders of the virus for life. Newborn chicks are protected by maternal antibodies for a few weeks. After infection, microscopic lesions are present after one to two weeks, and gross lesions are present after three to four weeks. The virus is spread in dander from feather follicles and transmitted by inhalation.[2] you can prevent this disease and protect your chickens for a few dollars by getting the Mareks vaccine.

Mareks vaccine why its so important!

If you own chickens its likely you have heard of Mareks disease. It is a Highly contagious air borne disease that is everywhere! It can give your bird paralysis in the neck and limbs and tumors inside the organs. Some strains are ocular and turn the iris of the eye blue followed by the tumors and paralysis and ultimately death. It is a horrific disease. It can travel in the air and is virtually everywhere! It is shed by the infected chickens dander and can infect your land for years to come. Its known as a chicken cancer its so bad. Marek's disease is a highly contagious viral neoplastic disease in chickens. It is named after József Marek, a Hungarian veterinarian. Occasionally misdiagnosed as an abtissue pathology it is caused by an alphaherpesvirus known as 'Marek's disease virus' (MDV) or Gallid herpesvirus 2 (GaHV-2). The disease is characterized by the presence of T cell lymphoma as well as infiltration of nerves and organs by lymphocytes.[1] Viruses related to MDV appear to be benign and can be used as vaccine strains to prevent Marek's disease. For example, the related Herpesvirus of Turkeys (HVT), causes no apparent disease in turkeys and continues to be used as a vaccine strain for prevention of Marek's disease (see below). Birds infected with GaHV-2 can be carriers and shedders of the virus for life. Newborn chicks are protected by maternal antibodies for a few weeks. After infection, microscopic lesions are present after one to two weeks, and gross lesions are present after three to four weeks. The virus is spread in dander from feather follicles and transmitted by inhalation.[2] you can prevent this disease and protect your chickens for a few dollars by getting the Mareks vaccine. let's begin with a list of needed supplies. You’ll need the freeze-dried Marek’s vaccine (and accompanying diluent for re-hydration), an unopened 1cc syringe with a very small needle (5/8 or 16mm), an unopened 3cc syringe with standard needle, rubbing alcohol, cotton balls, an ‘ice bath’ (bowl containing chipped ice) if you plan on taking more than half an hour to administer after mixing, and of course, a cheering section.

After popping the tops off of both the diluent and the vial of freeze-dried vaccine (leaving the rubber stoppers in tact in both cases), apply alcohol to the rubber stoppers of each. Take the 3cc syringe and draw a full 3cc of diluent.

 

Insert the needle into the freeze-dried vial of vaccine and inject all 3cc of diluent. Shake the vial very gently to re-hydrate the vaccine. While using the same 3cc syringe, draw back on the plunger to draw in 3cc of air.

 

Insert the 3cc syringe into the vial to release the air and break the vacuum so that you can draw the vaccine out of the vial. With the needle just inside the rubber stopper and the vial upside down, draw all of the hydrated vaccine out of the vial.

Insert the needle into the bottle of diluent and inject the entire 3cc of vaccine. Gently rock the bottle of diluent back and forth to mix the solution. You now have active vaccine ready to administer to the chicks.

Using your 1cc syringe (for the first time), draw out as much vaccine as you are comfortable with handling at one time. Each chick will receive 0.2cc of vaccine. (This dosage applies to all sizes of chicks.) That means that if you fill the 1cc syringe to the 1.0 mark, then you have enough to vaccinate 5 chicks before you need to redraw vaccine from the diluent bottle.

Place the diluent bottle full of active vaccine into the ‘ice bath’ until you need to draw again, IF you think you will take more than half an hour to administer all of the vaccines. (The virus dies and renders the vaccine ineffective after about one hour.)

Next (and assuming that you are right-handed), take the first chick – in your left hand, face down and with the head facing away from you. Use your left forefinger and thumb to separate the ‘fuzz’ on the back of the neck of the chick. Don’t worry if it doesn’t work, the next step will help it along.

Use an alcohol-soaked cotton ball to clean the injection site. You will notice that the alcohol makes most of the fuzz seem to disappear, and you will see the skin clearly. You should also be able to see some tiny veins through the skin. This is good, since it will help you to avoid them when injecting the vaccine

Using the 1cc syringe with vaccine in it, insert the needle at an angle toward yourself, and just under the skin. You won’t need to insert the needle very far in order to grab just enough skin with the tip of the needle to insure that you are truly just under the skin, as opposed to into the muscle. A slight lift up on the inserted needle tip will verify further where you are.
 

When you inject the accurate dose of 0.2cc of vaccine just under the skin, you will notice a ‘bubble’ forming where the vaccine is accumulating. This means that you are properly administering a subcutaneous (or SQ)injection of the vaccine.

Be sure to swipe your needle over an alcohol-soaked cotton ball in between injections to keep your needle sterile for your next chick.

After vaccination, the chicks They may be in a little bit of shock from the chill of the alcohol to the back of their neck. After all, they’re preferably only a day old and still accustomed to being very warm.

Keep them closely monitored for 24 hours to insure that they don’t get out from under the brooder during that time or get flipped over. You should right them when you notice that happening and place them squarely under the brooder.
You can also vaccinate older  chickens.the goal is to vaccinate before exposure! This is the best thing you can do to protect your chickens! YOU CAN DO IT!  You will be glad you did!